Are you one of the many people feeling the sting of rising food costs? 

This article is an homage to an underated family of vegetables that are healthy, versatile, and super cheap. It works wonders as a base for all sorts of dishes.

I’m talking of course about brassicas or ‘cabbages’ that include broccoli, cauliflower, red cabbage, white cabbage, kale, Brussel sprouts, etc.

I eat cabbage pretty much every day. If you’re not already on the cabbage wagon, below you’ll find three compelling reasons why you should start including them in your everyday cookery:

• They are packed with health boosting compounds. Researchers have discovered 20 different flavonoids and 15 different phenols with antioxidant properties in cabbages. The red ones called cyandins in red or purple cabbage protects against cholesterol; they lower inflammation and can help prevent heart disease. Cabbages also contain sinigrin; a sulfur compound that has been shown to protect against cancer. Evidence shows that consuming cabbage regularly lowers the risk of developing diabetes.

• They are available locally year round and have a small carbon footprint.

• They are incredibly economical with white and red cabbage costing around £1 per kilo.

But, I hear some of you say: “cabbage is so boring”. That’s true if you don’t know what to do with it. Below are two fundamental principles for turning cabbages into something delicious. These two principles work as a base that can themselves be varied in countless ways: 

Raw marinated

The formula goes cabbage + acidity + salt + sweet = delicious. When eaten raw it must be sliced as thinly as possible. This makes it more digestible and improves flavour. For this purpose a mandolin is a really great tool. You can get a good, affordable one here. 

Here the sweet element is the acidity comes from lemon and the sweet notes from honey. I’m adding some crushed toasted cumin seeds as well. You can use lots of other herbs and spices. Finely slice red, white or pointed cabbage on a mandolin.

Add salt, acidity (e.g. lime, lemon or vinegar) and sweet (e.g. sugar or honey). Scrunch it well with clean hands until it starts to go a bit translucent and gives off some moisture. Leave it to rest for 5-10 minutes.

Add a drizzle of e.g olive oil AND/OR yoghurt, creme fraiche, fresh herbs, spices, etc. Let your imagination and your taste buds guide you. There is, as I always say, no right or wrong way. Some combinations may not be as tasty as others, and that’s why you’ve got to try in order to learn what works.

Here I’ve toasted some cumin seeds, crushed them in a mortar, and added them along with a drizzle of olive oil, organic yoghurt. It’s a combo I keep coming back to again and again because it’s so damn tasty!

Sautéed/braised with allium and umami 

This formula goes cabbage + onion (any kind) + umami = delicious. When cooking with cabbage think umami and Maillard reactions (caramelisation). It just works. Get your head around this principle, because you are going to love it, and use it again and again.

In this example of the formula in action, I’ve used sweetheart cabbage + shallots for the onion element + soya sauce and smoked bacon for umami. The bacon is of course optional or can be replaced with mushrooms (shiitake work particularly well).

I’m including it here to demonstrate yet again the age old principle of using meat for flavour rather than being the main act. I’ve also included a dash or red wine vinegar and some potato starch. The latter will give the sauce a nice glossy viscosity. 

Chop or thinly slice the shallots; slice the cabbage into half inch thick strips; and thinly slice the bacon.

Heat some oil in a sauté pan or wok, then add the bacon (if using). Sauté until light golden, then add the onion and sauté for another 3-5 minutes before adding vinegar (if using), which should be evaporated almost completely before adding the soya sauce and a touch of sugar (optional).  

Let that all infuse and reduce until it’s nice and sticky as in the picture above right. 

Now add the cabbage and turn about until the sticky sauce is almost caramelised onto the cabbage. Add little dashes of water as needed in order to release caramelised bits on the pan, and avoid anything burning. 

Then put a lid on and let it braise for five-ten minutes removing lid to turn over everything a few times along the way. 

Dissolve some corn starch or potato starch in water, add a few spoonfuls to the pan, and stir whilst it thickens. Add more starchy water as needed, or plain water until you have the desired viscosity. 

When it’s like you want it, taste the sauce now. Does it need more umami? more acidity?, more sweet?, more spicy (if you’re using chilli)?. Adjust flavour palet as you like. There’s no right or wrong. Have fun with it. Experiment.

You try this and see what you think. When done right (and that doesn’t take much practice to learn) it really takes the humble cabbage to a whole new level, and it will let you create deliciously nutritious meals for peanuts (great addition too).